BOTH the depth and the diameter of the footer matter greatly. When mud in thrown in a hole, you will never know if it poured correctly or not.įrost line is only part of the equation when determining footing depth but here is a clue. Precast piers a superior option IMO because they are reinforced and poured or at least overseen by people that understand structural concrete.
How much uplift are you resisting? How much will rebar hold? The, how is that rebar going to look in 10yrs? (answer, it won't because it won't be there. "rebar" for uplift? Let me ask these questions. stamp can override "code" in every instance in construction, but we have determined that the math within the code is good so unless we have some particular circumstance that would require special design, code spec works. There is actually everything you need within the code, but it would have to get read. To answer your questions vaguely, code will drive the footing design based on many factors including soil type, load, and type of loading. It is durable and offers up to 1,900 psi compression strength. Complies with ASTM C 90 guidelines About This Product This Concrete Pier Block with Metal Bracket is ideal for building raised decks, walkways and floors. You are literally leaning on a building inspector for building advice? Do you also get medical advice from your gardener? Product Details Supporting/mounting post for foundation or masonry walls Weighs 50 lbs. Piers/ Staddle Stones have been used traditionally for centuries providing an economical, dry building. We have a range of stock sizes available to fit 100mm to 225mm timber posts and beams. It gets incredibly frustrating to read threads like this, knowing this is just another "wing it" project. We have been supplying Cast Concrete Piers to timber frame companies, Architects, decking companies, developers and private clients since 2002. He didn't suggest any cross bracing or purlins across the rafters. Rafters will be supported with joist hangers on the ledge, and lying on top of the beam secured by hurricane ties. I'll have a 2圆" ledger opposite that attached to the house, and 2圆 rafters 24" OC. So the plans will be to support the structure with the 4 4x4's, and double 2x8's on top as the beam. Blocks Pool Reinforcement, see Table for spacing LONGITUDINAL SECTION -Station and elevation 251510-6 Bar OUTLET TO CONCRETE. What he ended up suggesting was that I bury the 4x4's to a depth of 24" (frost line is 18") in gravel, with a piece of rebar through the bottom to resist uplift. So short version, I'm not going to get hassled by the inspector :smile:īut I want to do it right. He also told me that I should be able to get the whole thing done by the weekend-before the permit is issued. I thought he was joking when he seemed to think that the structure wouldn't see much wind. He approved my plans, and basically said I could do what I wanted. Concrete anderton 233 base 135 block 230 block retaining 123, 130 block retaining wall 131 block wall 123, 125 bollards 357358 cycle blocks 361 edge restraint. This is on the southern potomac in VA.Īnyway, met with him today, and he honestly didn't seem to have much of an idea of what's going on. Should I consider doing anything to address water (like adding a french drain)?īig thank you in advance for any help anyone can offer.Actually, the user name is no longer indicative of my location. Provided that I can bury them, what would be the best choice of material to bury them in? gravel/crushed stone? Stonedust/limestone screenings? A mix of both? Or maybe just backfill with the excavated topsoil? I live in a cold climate with long cold winters.įirst, can you bury these concrete piers or is this a terrible idea? Is anyone aware if this would be typically covered in building codes? However, I've been worrying though about water collecting there and how the concrete will hold up if it's exposed to that. Ideal for use in areas where hole depth for.
I've already started this work and dug the trench on the high side to place the piers in. EZ-TUBE is a patented precast concrete footing system, consisting of a base section, 1 or more upper sections and a threaded rod anchor to secure it into a single, solid pier-type footing. This is to keep the deck low to the ground and to avoid requiring railings or a permit by making it higher. So to build it, I was planning on putting the blocks on the low side on a single row of patio stones to raise it slightly, and was planning on excavating down a bit on the high grade side and partially burying the blocks on that side, perhaps 4-5 inches below grade. I'm building a ground level floating deck sitting on precast concrete pier blocks (the pyramid shaped ones with the "x" pattern on top that normally just sit on top of the ground).